GM-416-8B MLTL Corner Cabinet

[srivenkat]

Sri, if two woofers, are they aligned vertical or horizontal? If you want the front baffle removable, I think that you need two baffle panels, an inner panel that terminates at the horn mount bump-in and a finished panel that covers the entire speaker. I would be inclined to use 2x2's behind the first panel so that you have enough meat to sink its screws into.

For the gasket, I would think that you want a soft foam so that it compresses easily, and if need be, replace each time you open up the front panel, I can't tell from your link if your neoprene roll does that without feeling it.

Sorry, I know nothing about veneering, and have only helped apply it once, using contact adhesive and 1/4" dowels to position it over the substrate, and then carefully remove one at a time to lower the oversize veneer onto the panel.

This is all subject to GM's approval and his say is final.

VolvoHeretic,

Dual woofers are going to be horizontal and I agree I can have a complete new front panel for dual woofers when I am ready. For the dual woofers, I will be using bigger horn (511B) and the horn will be perched on top of the speaker cabinet with different XO.

So, for single woofer - according to your current cut plan. For dual woofer, I simply replace the entire front panel with a new panel which takes dual woofers and place the horn on top of the cabinet.

Of course, once GM approves we can finalize.

Thank you,
Sri

[srivenkat]

VolvoHeretic,

Dual woofers are going to be horizontal and I agree I can have a complete new front panel for dual woofers when I am ready. For the dual woofers, I will be using bigger horn (511B) and the horn will be perched on top of the speaker cabinet with different XO.

So, for single woofer - according to your current cut plan. For dual woofer, I simply replace the entire front panel with a new panel which takes dual woofers and place the horn on top of the cabinet.

Of course, once GM approves we can finalize.

Thank you,
Sri

VolvoHeretic/GM,

Ply boards are in today, I went with 4X8 - 6 boards and have them cut to approximate sizes. Next is to start the precise cutting!

BB-Ply-4X8 Photo by srivenkat1 | Photobucket

I will start the work on outside cabinet with your diagram and details, will keep adding pictures. I am sure my progress going to be slow.

Thank you,
Sri
Sri

[VolvoHeretic]

Sorry I haven't had much time to work on the speaker design, I've been dealing with a couple of family medical emergencies. Here are my latest ideas on the boxes. These drawings show two front removable panels, a sub-baffle and a finished main baffle.

The sub-baffle would be attached to triangular gussets with wood screws spaced about 4" o.c. and the main baffle would attach to the sub-baffle with 3/4" aluminum angles along the perimeter and also at the speaker and port holes behind the cloth cover trim rings.

The aluminum angles would attach to the sides of the main baffle and the side of the cabinet with wood screws and the two angles would be bolted together with pan head bolts. I am thinking that the a sheet of thin laminate flooring foam underlayment sandwiched between the two panels would keep them from rattling. The angles would then be covered with wood quarter round.

I have not calculated the net volume but guess the depth of the box will have to be a little deeper, like maybe 28".

[srivenkat]

Sorry I haven't had much time to work on the speaker design, I've been dealing with a couple of family medical emergencies. Here are my latest ideas on the boxes. These drawings show two front removable panels, a sub-baffle and a finished main baffle.

The sub-baffle would be attached to triangular gussets with wood screws spaced about 4" o.c. and the main baffle would attach to the sub-baffle with 3/4" aluminum angles along the perimeter and also at the speaker and port holes behind the cloth cover trim rings.

The aluminum angles would attach to the sides of the main baffle and the side of the cabinet with wood screws and the two angles would be bolted together with pan head bolts. I am thinking that the a sheet of thin laminate flooring foam underlayment sandwiched between the two panels would keep them from rattling. The angles would then be covered with wood quarter round.

I have not calculated the net volume but guess the depth of the box will have to be a little deeper, like maybe 28".

VolvoHeretic,

Absolutely no problem VolvoHertic and hope things are better for you now. Thanks a lot for your drawings ? every bit of it is so helpful for me.

Very detailed explanation about the two baffle arrangement, great! So, for me now there are two options to consider based on the difficulty level.

Option 1 (my current choice) ? Using a 1?X2? frame inside and have the front baffle screwed to this with neoprene gasket between the frame and back side of the front baffle
Option 2 (little difficult for me) ? Using two baffle as you described here. Besides the aluminum angles bolting, around speaker driver cavity and port section has to be screwed in?

Option-1 is relatively simple for me. What would be the advantage of going with option-2 with two baffles?

Also, I see a circular spot in the middle of the diagram close to the horn driver - from the top view. Is that representing driver distance position?

Again, thanks a lot.

-Sri

[VolvoHeretic]

Thanks Sri, my mother-in and brother-in-law where driving home from the grocery store and in the dark clipped the corner of a parked 6000lb SUV with their little 2500lb Toyota Rav4, spun sideways and flipped over next to it. They where only going 25-30mph, but weren't wearing their seatbelts and slammed into the steering wheel and windshield-the airbags did not deploy which might or might not have been a good thing. Brother only needed 9 stitches in his eyelid where his glasses cut it, but Mom broke her femur, ribs, jaw, palate, and eye socket and will have a long recovery ahead of her. WEAR YOUR SEATBELTS!!!! even if just to the store.

Anyway, that round thing is the vertical 1.5 or 1.75" pine handrail top and bottom panel stiffener. I would also cut two 4"x4" pieces of plywood, cut the handrail shape out and using PL400, glue the heck out of them to get a lot of square inches of gluing surface with the vertical and the base and cap panels.

I figured that since there are two pieces of plywood behind the woofer and ports, one full size secondary-baffle would be stronger, and easier to make removable. Plus, I am trying to get away from any visible exposed or plugged screws. I also want to make everything as strong as possible because I know how much energy these speakers can generate at 110db 36 feet away, mine worked all of the nails out of the flooring 10' out into the room.

[srivenkat]

Thanks Sri, my mother-in and brother-in-law where driving home from the grocery store and in the dark clipped the corner of a parked 6000lb SUV with their little 2500lb Toyota Rav4, spun sideways and flipped over next to it. They where only going 25-30mph, but weren't wearing their seatbelts and slammed into the steering wheel and windshield-the airbags did not deploy which might or might not have been a good thing. Brother only needed 9 stitches in his eyelid where his glasses cut it, but Mom broke her femur, ribs, jaw, palate, and eye socket and will have a long recovery ahead of her. WEAR YOUR SEATBELTS!!!! even if just to the store.

Anyway, that round thing is the vertical 1.5 or 1.75" pine handrail top and bottom panel stiffener. I would also cut two 4"x4" pieces of plywood, cut the handrail shape out and using PL400, glue the heck out of them to get a lot of square inches of gluing surface with the vertical and the base and cap panels.

I figured that since there are two pieces of plywood behind the woofer and ports, one full size secondary-baffle would be stronger, and easier to make removable. Plus, I am trying to get away from any visible exposed or plugged screws. I also want to make everything as strong as possible because I know how much energy these speakers can generate at 110db 36 feet away, mine worked all of the nails out of the flooring 10' out into the room.

Very sorry to hear that, wishing both of them a speedy recovery. Hope you and your family come out of the shock slowly. Please take care.

If two ply would be required for the front baffle, I can sandwich for an 1.5" thick removable front baffle but use the same framing with neoprene approach to simplify. I can cut the woofer cavity on the sandwiched boards for flush mounting the drivers. For the port, back panel will have the larger cut and front panel board will be mounted on that with neoprene. Would this work? Along with this 1.5 inch, there will be veneering on top of it.

The other thought for the Port - Have a 9" port on the panel and cut different size (6", 5" ports) inches wooden ring which can be made to tight fit. Would this work?

I got the hand rail connecting top and bottom. But, not clear with 4"X4" plywood pair. You are suggesting have ply in between top/bottom board and handrail so, I can have them glued well? For the internal bracing, GM suggestions will be coming we can decide on this along with that.

Thank you,
Sri

[VolvoHeretic]

Sri, thanks for the kind words of encouragement. My 84 year old mother-in-law is in a drug induced coma and a ventilator, but she needs to be weaned off of it and start breathing on her own. It is still touch and go and she is developing congestive heart failure which is fluid surrounding the heart.

Anyway, it appears that pine hand railing comes in 1.5" diameter and the 4x4 ply plates will have that same size hole drilled in them so the railing is the full inside box height and the plates slide over it and will act like a large gusset and increase the gluing surface area from 1.75 to 16 sq in plus the .75" depth.

I envision using 2x2's cut diagonally into 1.5x1.5 triangles to also give a large gluing surface area and I would screw the removable panels to them with 1.5" #12 screws @4"O.C. and I suppose a highly contrasting screw hole plug could look acceptable (like cherry plugs on a light birch finish) and in that case, you could go back to the original drawing with just the areas for the speaker(s) and ports doubled up.

I still don't know where to place the ports and I don't know what affect having a stepped thickness near the ports will have on their function. If you could router a step into the port board outer diameter, you could leave that area just a single thickness and just change out different circles with various diameter ports.

Let me do some more drawing.

James